Sub compact crank

For some time now I have been running an 11-36T rear cassette on my road bike. That’s right 36T, not that common. Specific if you are interested it’s this Zitto cassete

Reason being I was after a little additional help on the hills. I’m a big bloke as a Doctor once told me I’m not built for running marathons. I’m more the front row of you local Rugby team

I run a pretty standard 34/50 compact crank This gives me a gear ratios in the table below with a handy 1:1 ratio at the bottom.

11-34 Cassette

Cog / Chainring1113151719212325273034
343.09092.61542.26672.00001.78951.61901.47831.36001.25931.13331.0000
504.54553.84623.33332.94122.63162.38102.17392.00001.85191.66671.4706

A change to 11-36 resulted in a different set of ratios.

11-36 Cassette

Cog / Chainring1113151719212325283236
343.09092.61542.26672.00001.78951.61901.47831.36001.21431.06250.9444
504.54553.84623.33332.94122.63162.38102.17392.00001.78571.56251.3889

I have been running this for some time (~8000kms). My only query was I felt I was in 36 Cog earlier than I should be on the steep climbs and until I looked hard at the numbers in the table. I would have told you the second last cog was the issue. However looking at the numbers I’m not sure it was.

Enter the Sub Compact crank. I’m now running a Praxis Alba 32/48 crank, second hand on Ebay for a little over $100. At the same time I have change back to the the 11-34T cassette that has had very little wear (~1000km)

11-34 Cassette (Sub Compact)

Cog/Chainring1113151719212325273034
322.90912.46152.13331.88241.68421.52381.39131.28001.18521.06670.9412
484.36363.69233.20002.82352.52632.28572.08701.92001.77781.60001.4118

Now the feel on the bike is like I am not going into the 34 Cog as often as the I was the 36 Cog in fact the 34 is typical now only for the extra pinches >9%. What the maths shows is that in the <1.2 ratio I have 4 gears in that range to play whereas both the 34T and 36T on the compact chainring I only have 3 gears.

The difference is very subtle and honestly on paper it really does not look a whole lot different. On the bike however I now feel I have better options at the lower end of the gear selection.

Now the obvious thing is I have lost some top end speed. I’m topping out at around 53Km/hr as opposed to what would maybe have been 54-55Km/hr. Now if I was doing fast bunch rides mostly on the flat this may be an issue. But I’m no. A flat ride for me has at least 300meters of climbing in it and I’m riding solo, not in any condition to be doing sustained 55Km/hr on my own.

So give it try don;t be afraid to look outside the standard setups There is a pretty good article on Cycling tips from 2016 that talks about this.